Youngest Person To Ever Lead Climb Am Buachaille
In September 2024 young Aden at just 11 years old became the youngest person to ever lead climb Am Buachaille – he climbed the landward face at HVS 5a 50m long. He has his sights set on becoming the youngest person to lead climb the Old Man of Hoy and Am Buachaille was one of the stepping stones for him to achieve this epic goal! He set off from his house at 04:30 in the morning with his parents before heading briefly to their accommodation at Stoer and then onwards to meet Jim at the Blairmore car park at half 12.
They sorted the required equipment and then set off on their 2 hour walk which alas turned into a 3 hour walk due to some blisters which formed on Alan (dad’s) feet due to different boots from normal. This meant we got to the bottom of the sea stack (Am Buachaille) at 15:30 – an hour later than might be ideal – especially seeing as we were going for the youngest lead climb record (losing time makes things harder). Low tide was at 16:22 and normally you get to the base of the climb 2 hours earlier to swim across giving yourself a 4 hour window for the tides. Thankfully today the sea was very calm due to a lovely high pressure system overhead allowing a bit of extra leeway. Jim made his way across the 10m mandatory swim with young Aden following and Alan following last. They all got changed on the far side before gearing up for the climb.
Climbing the Landward Face of Am Buachaille
Jim led up Am Buachaille pitch one the easy pitch of climbing sitting at the British grade of 4a to allow Aden and Alan a chance to warm up after the swim and get the blood flowing on the climb prepping for the youngest ascent. He brought them up to him and then led all the way to the top dropping his rope back down to jug alongside Aden as he led the 2nd and 3rd pitches – the two harder pitches sitting around the grade of British 5a climbing with an HVS gear grade. The climb itself is very gritty sandstone so the holds never feel very strong but the actual gear other than the first pitch is really good with larger cracks for cams in the size 5-8 range predominantly.
Aden did amazing cruising up pitch two of the climbing putting the gear in, finding his way and building an anchor to bring his dad up before tackling the last pitch of Am Buachaille – you almost wouldn’t believe he was the youngest let alone the fact it was his first time on the stack. The 2nd pitch traverses out from the anchor and then follows a deep crack up to a great ledge to belay. The third and final pitch climbs up overhanging horns of sandstone in an almost absurd position for the grade before topping out on the summit of the stack. Aden became the youngest person ever to lead climb Am Buachaille at around 19:15 – this is almost an hour after the normal cut of time of two hours after high tide. But due to the calm seas we kept pushing on and keeping a close eye on the sea. Topping out we just had enough time to take a few photos and a cheeky drone video – for Aden to have his first 0% alcohol beer (Guinness) before abseiling off and taking a now 30/35m swim back across the channel to flee up the beach and path to re-unite with mum (Lynn) who stayed on the mainland to watch and take the photos. Due to the fact the tides were now in their quick phase we didn’t have much time after the swim to get changed and warm up we fled speedily up the stony beach which was significantly smaller now than on the walk in to reach the path before getting changed! Alas this meant a slightly chilly Aden for the walk out but better than being stranded and soaked so he got the luxury of wearing Jim’s AMI primaloft jacket! A privileged few youth have ever had the luxury of!
This then followed with a 3 hour walk out to get back to the van after getting changed first and working our way up the steep bank to finish at the vans finally around about 11 at night. And the whole walk there was never one complaint from Aden other than one simple factual comment of im tired as he lay down and curled in a ball on the grassy side for 15 minutes of shut eye waiting for Alan to catch up (blisters).
Young Man of Am Buachaille
Aden did what many in the industry thought impossible and not logical to attempt. To try and lead a sea stack at such a young age is truly amazing! To have the determination, the maturity, the skill, the mental tenacity and strength as well as the energy (especially at that time of day) to climb a serious route which is effectively a big series of sandstone jenga blocks out at sea which you really don’t want to have any problems on otherwise rescue would be complicated and time consuming or a huge swim… Frankly words don’t sum this up epic is an understatement and Aden already is an amazing climber but has has the potential to be truly incredible! Look out Hoy!
Oh and everything he is doing on the stacks he is doing for charity for guide dogs as he has wanted to climb them since 4 having been inspired by the first blind ascent by Jesse! Not only is he the youngest lead climber for Am Buachaille, but is also the same for the Old Man of Stoer and hoping to be for the Old Man of Hoy.
